Colombo
In Sri Lanka’s biggest city the buildings of its colonial era stand grandly amidst the architecture of today. You could visit the varied collections of the National Museum or the stilted Sambodhi Temple. A walk in Viharamahadevi Park is particularly relaxing especially when trees are blossoming. This ancient seaport amiably blends the ancient cultures of the East with the recent influences of the West. Hindu and Buddhist temples co-exist with churches left by early Portuguese and Dutch settlers, occasional run-down, forgotten mansions and glistening high-rise buildings of the present day. As Sri Lanka’s commercial hub, Colombo is a great place to pick up bargain textiles and crafts, with shops ranging from bustling markets to chic boutiques hosting contemporary exhibitions. The National Museum, opened in 1877, is just one of the graceful colonial buildings on display, but Cargill’s department store (opened 1907) is also well worth a visit for it’s slightly worn colonial charm. Night life too is booming in Colombo from 5 Star nightclubs to cosy bars to casinos and trendy restaurants. Colombo also has some of the island’s best hotels, from the white gloved bell boys at the Galle Face Hotel to ultra-modern creations in glass and steel, ideal for a last few hours relaxing by the pool before a farewell meal.
The Cultural Triangle
Most visitors to Sri Lanka want to spend some time in the Cultural Triangle, an area in the middle of the island where the ancient cities of Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Sigiriya and the caves of Dambulla are found, atmospherically set in the dry highlands. The drive up from Colombo or across from Kandy takes around four hours, but there are plenty of good hotels in this area and its well worth spending a few days exploring properly from a local base. For those who wish to explore the natural world there is also the chance to go spotting wild elephant at Minneriya National Park, or use their tame cousins for an elephant-back safari at Habarana.
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Anuradhapura and Mihintale
The most northerly point on the Triangle and the site of a 4th century BC settlement, the ruins here are still considered a holy city to Buddhists. Dozens of worshippers bring offerings of flowers to give to the saffron robed monks, and tie new scraps of fabric to the huge bodhi tree, thought to have been grown as a cutting from the tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment. A cutting from this tree has, in turn, been returned to Varanasi and now attracts devotees on the Ganges. Several huge dagobas, bell shaped brick structures holding relics of the Buddha, are set around deep tanks, or reservoirs, where monks would have once bathed. At least half a day is needed to explore the ruins. The nearby temple of Mihintale is where King Tissa was converted to Buddhism in 243BC, and is regarded as the cradle of this religion in Sri Lanka. A long flight of stairs carved into the granite reach a dagoba carved with the traditional symbols of geese, elephants and other animals. This site is far less busy than the others in the Cultural Triangle and the views from the top are excellent.
Polonnaruwa
The Buddhist capital of Sri Lanka from 11th – 13th century, Polonnaruwa has a number of areas of interest including the former palace, audience hall and magnificent carved Buddhas. From the Vatadage, a circular building with four seated Bhuddas in the heart of the quadrangle, you climb the steps crossing the moonstone, a semicircular stone carved with horses, elephants, lions, bulls and geese. Although parts of the city are ruined and monkeys scamper around the walls, it still retains a certain atmosphere. You can combine Polonnaruwa with a visit to the Sigiriya rock fort.
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Sigiriya
The 200m high Lion Rock at Sigiriya can be seen from miles around as it towers over the flat plains. It was for this very reason that King Kasyapa made it his fortress in the 5th century. Approaching the base of the rock, visitors pass the remains of the formal gardens and water tanks, and climb towards the famous frescoes. Painted onto a plaster background, the faces of the serving women still retain a life and colour that transcends the centuries. The final ascent to the top of the rock is on a series of narrow metal walkways and steps. Not much of the original palace remains on the top but the view alone will leave you in no doubt as to why it was chosen to be a fortress.
Minneriya National Park
The 4th century reservoir built by King Mahasena covers a huge 3000 acres and attracts a number of animals and birds including wild elephants, serpent eagles and the occasional leopard. During the dry season, large herds of elephant come to the waters edge to drink and wash. The sight of these family groups is amazing and it is easy to discern, over time, the various relationships within the group. Access to the park is by jeep with a local guide. It’s a great place to spend a few hours, while naturalists may want to stay longer.
Dambulla
More than a hundred standing, meditating and reclining Buddhas are carved into the rocks of the caves at Dambulla, an important place of pilgrimage for the faithful. The caves at Dambulla provided protection and shelter for King Valagambahu during the 1st century BC, and the cave temple was constructed in celebration of his return to the throne and later expanded into a complex maze of individual temples and shrines. The Buddhas, cave walls and ceilings are painted in glowing colours which shine despite the darkness inside. An early start is advisable, as there are a number of steps to climb. Dambulla can be combined with the Sigiriya Rock Fortress as an excursion from Kandy, or, if travelling towards Kandy, you can continue through the spice growing area, where many of the plantations welcome visitors with an explanation of spices and a therapeutic massage with infused oils.
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Kandy
Stronghold of the Sinhala Kings and capital of Sri Lanka’s hill regions, Kandy is perhaps the most beautiful and romantic city in the island. Surrounded by green hills and with a large lake in the town centre, Kandy combines the sophistication of a modern city with the timeless appeal of ancient temples. The most famous is the gold-roofed Temple of the Tooth, where a simple wooden structure contrasts with the lavish golden roof and exuberant Buddha statues. Sri Lanka has a majority Buddhist population and their main festival, the Esala Perahera, is a ten-day pageant that transforms Kandy during July or August. In festival times, a stay in Kandy is an assault on the senses. Outside Kandy, there are two particularly fascinating places to visit. The nearby botanical gardens are renowned worldwide, bringing together countless species from every part of the island. The Pinnewala Elephant Ophanage, about an hour and a half drive out of town, is a fascinating place to see elephants at large: watching them bathe is always a joyful experience.
As night falls, cultural shows take place in a number of venues around Kandy. Offering a snapshot of music and dance on the island, they may conclude with a dramatic fire walking demonstration. Kandy is also a good place to shop, with gems and jewellery especially good value. Two or three days here are needed to explore the many facets of this holy town and the beauties of the surrounding area. If travelling on, a scenic train journey runs from Kandy up to Nuwara Eliya, in the heart of the tea country.
Beautiful Hill Country
Nuwara Eliya
Built by the British as a hill station to escape the heat of the lowlands and set at approximately 2000 metres, the climate is somewhat cooler in Nuwara Eliya. The combined sight of pine trees, golf course and race track can give an initial impression that you’ve somehow flown home – but also back a few years in time. Along the lake and through the town are homes and hotels that would not look out of place in southern England. The three main hotels, St Andrews, The Hill Club and the Grand all possess an old world charm. You know at once you’re in Sri Lanka when you visit the tea plantations. Pickers work their way up and down the bushes that cover the hills surrounding Nuwara Eliya, collecting only two leaves and a bud from each stem. A visit to one of the many tea factories gives an insight into the production process, unchanged for the last hundred years, an evocative experience that will add to your appreciation of every cup of tea.
The Horton Plains, two hours away by jeep, is a huge national park, where Sri Lanka’s central mountain massif is sheared off into a huge plateau, dotted with rhododendron and swathes of evergreen forest. At its best in the morning, as the sun burns a shrouded mist from the patna grasslands, this is a wonderland where deer, wild boar and giant squirrels form an ideal diet for the park’s elusive predators: leopard. The birdlife is superb and the views are spectacular, particularly at ‘World’s End’, where the plateau drops 700 metres to the surrounding plain. Adam’s Peak is a holy mountain sacred to all four of the world’s major religions. Jutting sharply from the forested landscape of south-western Sri Lanka and known, locally, as ‘The Holy Footprint’, this mountain is climbed from December to April by Muslim, Hindus and Buddhist pilgrims and is thought, by Christians, to be where Adam and Eve were exiled. Shrines and temples line the route up the mountain, and from the peak it is thought, on a clear day, that you can see the Garden of Eden.
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Ella
Travelling south east from Nuwara Eliya towards the coast, you will pass through a delightful area called Ella. A wonderful hilly landscape of tea estates, forests and waterfalls, this is a great place for walking or relaxing in the cool air. Bird life is plentiful and the views spectacular.
Golden Beaches
The Southern Coast
Easily accessible whether you are travelling west from Yala and Habantota or south from Galle, the Southern Coast has miles of golden beaches, separated into small bays, each with its own resort. This area was first discovered by backpackers and accommodation is generally more simple than that found at nearby Galle and Bentota, with an easy-going, friendly atmosphere and plenty of small restaurants and local shops, with watersports available locally. The best time to visit this part of Sri Lanka is between November and April as the sea can be rough through the summer months. Tangalle is one of the best beaches on the south coast and a breeding ground for turtles. The turtles are protected, with a local sanctuary where you can see the conservation project work, and this quiet conservation project sets the tone for small, eco-friendly beach resorts. Unawatuna is a peaceful little town with a sheltered beach where you can swim safely year-round. The hotels are simple and often small, friendly locally run establishments. There is a large choice of beach cafes and bars where tasty seafood fresh from the sea is cooked to order.
Galle
Recently designated a World Heritage Site, Galle combines the grand architecture of the colonial era with some of Sri Lanka’s finest beaches. First colonised by the Portuguese, Galle’s fortifications and mansions also show influences from Dutch and British eras. A massive fort dominates the walled city, where narrow streets lined with colonial buildings have been home for centuries to lace-makers and jewellers, perfecting their crafts under changing colonial powers. On either side of this atmospheric city are palm-fringed beaches, ideal for relaxing and swimming, making this the perfect place to combine a beach holiday with a gentle appreciation of Sri Lanka’s colourful past.
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Bentota
The coastal stretch from Tangalle to Colombo is dotted with beach resorts, the most popular of which is Bentota, set on a sandy peninsular surrounded by palm-fringed beaches. There is a wide choice of accommodation styles and a selection of good value restaurants.
Trincomalee
Little visited in recent years, the atmospheric city of Trincomalee is set amongst miles of golden-sand beaches, where visitors are few and a warm welcome is assured. Located on one of the world’s best natural harbours, the city was disputed by Dutch, Portuguese and British powers, and was the headquarters for the Allied forces in World War II. Now it is one of Sri Lanka’s most pristine tourist destinations, with Buddhist and Hindu Temples set alongside churches and mosques. In the agricultural hinterland rice is the major crop while around the coast undeveloped, palm-fringed beaches are perfect for swimming and scuba diving from May to October. Trincomalee can be reached in a few hours from the Cultural Triangle by road via Habarana.